A week in Paradise

We arrived in Mombasa around noon, and the smells and sounds of Africa were overwhelming again. Ayub the driver was there to pick us up. The new highway and bridge over the water had just opened a few weeks ago – making the trip to Kwale a mere 70 minutes. It saves a lot of time, not having to take the Likoni ferry.

At Kombani we left the provincial road, taking the way up to Kwale. Through the village – which has grown substantially since the provincial government has built a lot of extra offices there – and then finally onto the red dust road towards the Cliff House. Palm trees, banana trees and scattered houses.

After entering the gate you walk down a little steep path, past the BBQ terrace, through the garden, and then you are there. The Cliff House is literally built into the rocks – you enter at the top floor, but there are 2 more floors below.  On the ground floor there is the living room/kitchen, huge terrace, and one bedroom. One down there are 2 more bedrooms and the infinity swimming pool, and 2 down there are 2 more bedrooms. All with private bathrooms.

Irene the housekeeper had prepared everything for a warm and relaxed welcome. She comes in every day to do the beds, clean the bathrooms and keep everything spic and span. She is good natured, smiling, and extremely friendly.

And then…. The great relaxing started. Sitting on the terrace, sipping a glass of wine, and looking down into the valley with the meandering river. Listening to all the different birds, the monkey sounds, the buzzing of the dragonflies. Seeing the sky change every half hour, all those different clouds and colours. When it gets hot, you go downstairs for a dip in the pool, or a doze in the hammocks. You put your elbows over the edge of the pool, and feel like you are in paradise.

And so our week started. We had hired a chef to do all the cooking for us – which is a total luxury, but man, could he cook! He comes for breakfast, lunch and dinner. We liked going down to Diani to do our own shopping for groceries, so Ayub took us there twice in the week. A very good excuse also to have a coffee and a snack on the beach. The Indian ocean is the bluest ocean, and the sand on Diani is the whitest sand.

Marie the owner took us on a tour of her 4Kenya school, very interesting to see the school with its many facilities and the many hardworking students, and to hear the story of how this school has grown in the last 20 years.

During the week we also decided to go on a Safari in Tsavo East. We didn’t want to take a big arranged tour, so we hired a small bus plus driver, and we stayed for a night in the Ngutini lodge. We saw so many elephants, it was amazing. Also zebra’s, giraffe families, and lots of springbok and waterbuck. No lions or rhino – they are very private in their behaviour. But from the balcony of our bedroom at night we did see the elephant herd in the waterhole. Magic!

But after the 4 hour car trip we were happy to be back in our private paradise the Cliff house. We spent the days reading, lounging, playing games, swimming, talking and laughing, and eating lots of good food. And just sitting on the terrace and gazing – sometimes listening to the elephants, moving around below our terrace. Doing nothing can feel so good, and makes you utterly relaxed.

And the cost of this all? We spent a little over 3.000 euro in total, for the week (4 people). Including the driver, the shopping, the chef, the safari + lodge, generous tips to everyone who made this week for us so special – and of course the house. We will definitely be back!